When I have my hair colored, the colorist uses what she calls "4NW". I know nothing about this, but am trying to find a way to do this at home since the expense is ridiculous and I just don't have time to sit in a salon constantly. Can I translate this jargon into something that will tell me what color to purchase at the store?? If I went toa beauty supply store, what would I need?

I am grateful for any suggestions. Thanks!

This refers to the color she uses "maple" 4NW It is a Redken color Gel permenant color

when going to Sally's you will need
1 bottle of color (2oz), 20 volume peroxide,unless otherwise specified(2oz), 2 disposable tint gloves, processing cap and directions



Coloring Terminology

Level: Think of a color chart that has 10 levels. 1 being the darkest which is black. And 10 being the lightest which is pale yellow. When we talk about levels we are referring to how light or dark your hair is. If you have medium brown hair, you are most likely a level 6. If you have light blonde hair you are a level 9. And so on and so on.

Tones: Tones are the base of colors. Beige, Gold, Ash, and Neutral/Natural are bases of color. You also have warms and cools when dealing with tones. A beige is generally a cool tone but some lines have more gold in the color thus making it a warm tone.

Developer: Developer is Peroxide. No, not the kind you all have at home. This is what causes the cuticle to open, allowing color pigment to enter the cuticle.

Volumes of Developers: The higher the volume, the stronger it is. Generally you would use 20 volume when coloring. When highlighting you would use 30 volume and above.





So you tried to lighten your hair in the past from a level 3 brown to a level 9 light blonde with a box color. Didn't work right? Basic rule of color is you can not "lift" more then 2 levels. When wanting to go over 2-3 levels higher than your natural color, you must first destroy some of the natural pigment by bleaching or a less harsh word decolorizing, removing natural and artificial pigment.



1 is black

2 is the darkest brown (black to the eye)

3 is dark brown (very dark)
4 is medium brown (dark with a little reddish flavor)

5 is light brown (what most would call a medium brown)
6 is dark blonde (what most would call a light brown)
7 is medium blonde (commonly called "dirty blonde")

8 is light blonde (a golden medium blonde)

9 is lighter blonde (what most of us call blonde)

10 is palest blonde (as light as you can get without being white)





When choosing a color say you have medium brown hair, level 4, when ordering color to cover gray if you are only about 5 to 30% gray go with one level higher to a level 5, and so on. Choosing a 4 which is the same level as your natural color would make your hair that is not gray 1 ½ to 2 shades darker.



I will help you select the proper color(s) that are right for you!





Natural Warm - Adds a few warm tones

1NW (Midnight)

2NW (Chocolate Kiss)

3NW (Mocha Java)

4NW (Maple)

5NW (Cappuccino)

6NW (Brandy)

7NW (Chestnut)

8NW (Safari)



9NW (Irish Crème)

10NW (Macadamia Nut)



Natural Ash - Helps hide red tones

4NA (Chicory)

5NA (Walnut)

6NA (Moroccan Sand)

7NA (Mirage)

8NA (Mojave)

9NA (Platinum Ice)

10NA (Silk)



Natural – Natural color without toning

3N (Espresso)

4N (Hazelnut)

5N (Coffee Bean)

6N (Suede)

7N (Bamboo)

8N (Sesame)

9N (Café au Lait)

10N Crème Latte)

Natural Gold - Adds golden tones

4NG (Pecan) - 2 left

5NG (Carmel) - 3 left

6NG (St. Tropez)

7NG (Saffron)

8NG (Sunflower)

9NG (Vanilla Crème) - 5 left

10NG (Honey) - 3 left





Warm Gold – More golden tones

4WG (Sun Tea)

6WG (Mango)

8WG (Golden Apricot)

10WG (Crème Brulee)



Red - Bright, deep reds

4R (Lava)

6R (Rocket Fire)

7R (Flame)

8R (Sunfire)



Red/Violet - Deep reds with violet tones

3RV (Roxy Red) - 2 left (Color has been discontinued)

4RV (Cabernet)

5RV (Scarlet)



Ruby Brown - Reds with brown tones

3RB (Mahogany)

4RB (Mulberry)

5RB (Manzanita)



Red/Orange – Adds reddish orange tones, helps achieve auburn

5RO (Paprika)

6RO (Bonfire)

7RO (Marigold)

9RO (Papaya)



Golden/Red – Adds a golden/red tone

10GR (Golden Rose) 1 Left (Color has been discontinued)





Used to lighten your hair, should be about a level 5 to 8

Blonding Gels Clear - Maximum blonding without toning

Blonding Gels #1 - Maximum blonding for light brown hair (for hair that is level 6)

Blonding Gels #2 - Maximum blonding for dark blonde hair (for level 7)

Blonding Gels #3 - Maximum blonding for medium blonde hair (for level 8)



Hope this helps

wow, great answer! You seem well versed in hair color, so I thought maybe you could help me too...

Here is my question... I have been coloring my hair with the "wash out in 24 washings" stuff for a few years. Not covering my few grays well anymore, so I switched to permanant color, I buy medium golden brown, which is pretty much my hair color anyway. I now have roots! My natural color is a bit darker than the color I'm using, so the roots show. My purpose for coloring is just to cover gray, not change my hair color.

I've followed the directions, coloring all over, then the next time I color, 2 months or so, following the roots procedure, leaving it on the roots for 20 mins, then adding the rest of the color all over for just 5 mins.

Is that what I should be doing every other time, one time roots, the next all over? It seems harsh to color all over every other time?

Another question, can I buy any brand color as long as it's "medium golden brown", and will it match? I tend to buy what's on sale/inexpensive and am not brand loyal.

Thanks in advance, hope you can help me too!
Paulette

I know I need to do this. I've been a "dark/medium auburn" for about 15 years. I want to get back to the medium brownish area and move toward a dark blonde - think Jennifer Aniston. My natural hair color I THINK is a pretty dark brown.

Is "decolorizing" a difficult process? I have gone to Sally Beauty and visited their hair section, I was never sure what to ask or how to ask it.

~ Ambrie ~

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That's close to the tone that I am looking for. I was a blondie as a child, but my hair has gotten dark over the years. I have highlighted quite a bit over the years, but have been doing it myself th past few. I think I have too much golden tone and don't like it. I want to start over and go a tad lighter than my natural color, then go in for a professional highlight.

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I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it!

Also, if you know what brand she used on you ..

Like if it is Redken brand some ppl sale that on ebay or they use too anyways if they dont have your shade they may be able to get it for you if you email them to ask..

Or do a search on the net on the brand someone maybe saling it out there .

Worth a shoot so you dont have to keep buying a color and its the wrong shade on your or what ever.

Thanks! I went to Sally, and they do not sell Redken. She was not able to tell me if there was a matching formula by a different manufacturer, and honestly seemed to have NO idea what she was doing.

Not sure where to look now, or what to buy. I checked out the drugstore, but there is nothing there that is a 4 N and W, and I'm afraid to end up with something completely different on my roots.

I also Use Redken it cant be brought anywhere cause its a Salon item only.

I also use Redken but i get so tired of going to the Salon since its getting so often anymore

So, I tryed matching the color to Sallys and other stores but had no luck.

Then I decided to check out the net and found ebay had it so I brought it there ..
And if the person didnt have my shade they could of gotten it for me.
But, I was in luck they had it.

Good Luck

Ok, let's tackle a little at a time:

for covering grey, you will need to get color that is 'specially' formulated for such. Grey is the hardest color there is to color, thus the need for specially formulated......this can be found in Sally's for about $3 in my area. The reason is grey is losing pigmentation and the cuticle is changing, making it more difficult for hair color to penetrate and remain in the hair. Specially formulated colors for grey have the appropriate chemical composition for the action needed.

for roots & touch ups, you are correct in doing that area 1st and longest. the hair closest to the scalp is the warm zone, meaning that the heat from the scalp helps to process and is also the area that needs concentration to match the remaining hairshaft. I suggest, finding a color that best matches your true hair color. By doing this, take a swatch of hair (like those samples in stores) find a spot in the crown of the head that is nearest to scalp....that is your natural hair color. Use that color MADE by the brand of the swatch. REASON: a 4 medium brown for Loreal MAY be a different tone than that of a 4 medium brown of Clairol, etc. etc.......And this means that your hair will likely NOT be the tone or shade that you expect, meaning it could be lighter or darker than needed. NEXT for application: I recommend that if you're wanting to do roots and not CHANGE the color of the remaing hair that you use 10, maybe 20 Volume peroxide. Reason being is that you're wanting to DEPOSIT hair color, not lift the color to dye it. Do the root area first and longest. Keep in mind some hair color suggests 20 minutes, while others suggest 45 minutes....it just depends on the manufacturer. And timing is likely the key.

If you need further tips or help, just post or drop me a line. Hope this helps and wasn't more confusing, lol.

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email is moserlara@yahoo.com

Oh, and for the decolorizing...... that is merely removing the color pigment from the hair using bleach. HOWEVER, it is not that simple when trying to obtain the correct level of lightness. I specialize in color and first and foremost you must have the understanding of how the decoloring process works, as well as how the primary and complementary colors work as well.

Are you trying to get the 'frosted' look? or are you trying to go a little lighter than the haircolor you currently have? Are you planing to decolor the entire head or just sections? There's a lot of variables that come into play. Also, keep in mind, working with bleach is dangerous and bad things can go wrong quickly, so even if you plan to do it, Pre-Plan and know how to correct what goes wrong. HTH

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email is moserlara@yahoo.com

I'm trying to change color completely.

Right now, I'd say I'm a medium/dark reddish brownish sorta color. I think the last color I used was medium reddish brown, but since my hair was so dark it stays pretty dark.

I'd like to migrate to the "Jennifer Aniston" color. Migrate meaning, I don't want to scare the heck out of myself or anyone else going so drastic! LOL! I figured if I could start with a medium brown or even towards a dark brown and work my way forward to the dark blonde she is/was.

Like this color: Perfect color

That's kinda what I'd like to end up eventually.

~ Ambrie ~

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Dalton Mamma,

You Rock!
Thanks a lot!

Paulette

do u have a pic (like the one you posted) of what your color looks like now?

also, if I am understanding correctly, the color you have now, is NOT your natural color? Also, need to know what the natural color is.

All of these play an important factor in achieving the correct color without disaster.

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email is moserlara@yahoo.com

No, I don't have a pic. Even if I did, all you'd be able to see is that it's dark. It's a dark reddish brown.

Natural color - very dark brown.


~ Ambrie ~

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Keep this in mind. A lighter hair dye can not be applied to dark hair, it will not work. Light on dark equals nothing. "IF" you were to come to me and wanted to take your hair from which is dark brown with a dark reddish brown color on it to the Jennifer Anniston color, here's what I would do:

I would 'heavily' pull through a cap and decolorize it (bleach) to the lowest pigmentation that your hair could handle. After this processes, I would rinse, remove cap, thoroughly wash and condition. Allow hair to dry. Apply a dark blonde with a blue base, probably a champagne blonde all over. This will give you the lighter brown color like jennifer.

**Note: heavily decolorizing your hair will be harmful, thus your hair and scalp needs to be in a healthy condition prior. ALSO, the reason for using a blue base is because you already stated that there is red in your hair so to cast out the red which will either get redder or orange, you need to use blue to cast out that effect.

__________________
email is moserlara@yahoo.com

Wow what a great informative post. The Hairdresser is getting way to expensive for me also at 130.00 a pop. I have darkish brown she colores to a lighter brown and puts in foils for highlights for a more blonde look. Can this be accomplished by me at home. Thanks in advance!!

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Without Health you have no Wealth!

Sent you a PM.

~ Ambrie ~

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Just thought I would let you all know that Target had alot of coloring and highlighing products 50% off. Just in case you wanted to try it yourself with all this great advice.